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Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Part Three of the Toy Box Build.

-Free standing Easter Bunny Egg.

I made a little more progress on the toy box build.
Because the edges of MDF are so porous it's difficult to get a nice painted edge. The paint wants to soak in and leave a rough edge. I use a DIY sealer I make with wood glue and water. I don't have an exact mixture. I just pour a couple heaping spoon fulls of glue into a half cup of water. Stir it up well.  
Apply sealer to every edge of the MDF that will be taking paint. 
Let the sealer dry for a few hours and apply a second coat of sealer. Let that dry completely and you are ready to paint.
I'm going to use spray paint for this project. My wife said she wanted pink but not Barbie pink. I found this Berry Pink so I bought four cans.
The paint covered pretty well after just one coat but it will still need at least a second coat. 
 I used 000 steel wool to knock down the texture the paint leaves. You want to get the paint nice and smooth before the next coat.  Make sure you remove all the steel wool debris before you apply the next coat. An air compressor does a good job. Protect your eyes.  

Tomorrow I will get the painting finished. I will attach the lid with some decorative hinges. Once that is finished I can start with the scroll saw work. I know I will scroll the child's name in large letters for the front of the box. I have some decision making for the rest of the ornamentation if any. Maybe butterflies.

The Scrollsaw Workshop is primarily supported by donations. If you enjoy this Blog and would like to make a donation please click this link. Your support is greatly appreciated. Make A Donation


If you would like to have all the patterns in the Scrollsaw Workshop catalog you can buy the first six years DVD and the 2013 update DVD at this link. DVD #1 is $20 and contains over 1,100 patterns. The 2013 update DVD is $7.50 and has another 178 patterns.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Hundreds of emails

I don't want to stay on this subject too long but I do want to explain my decision to remove the pattern from Mondays post. As you know some people found the pattern in poor taste. After some thought I removed the pattern and apologized for the situation. My poor email server nearly had a melt down after I apologized and removed the pattern. 99 out of 100 folks thought I should not have removed the pattern. I even had a couple of people from the clergy tell me they did not think the pattern had a religious context. I have never had that many emails in one day. I stopped counting at 500+. Many said the pattern was not appealing to them but they just deleted it and were not offended in any way. Several want me to send them the pattern. About 10 said the pattern was a mistake and agreed that it should be removed. Here is why I agree with the people who thought I should take it down. My blog is not about artistic freedom. It's not about a discussion of current political or social events. I'm just a guy who likes to make patterns. Thousands of folks have signed up to receive my email newsletter. when they signed up they saw my work and had a reasonable expectation that they could expect similar to arrive in their emails. For me that is an implied contract I have with my readers. I have a responsibility to not send emails into your house that are not the common standard of the work I have always produced. The removal had little to do with my thoughts on if it really made a religious statement. I actually did not think their was a religious context but I am able to see the point of few that it did. My primary reason to remove the pattern is because it was not something I usually post. If it had not been sent in the email I may not have made the decision to apologize. I consider your email box to be personal. There is no way I can reply to all the email from folks who want me to send them the pattern. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts. Everyday is a learning experience for us all. I'm lucky to have thousands of people who care enough about the blog to make a comment. it would be bad if no one cared. That's all I'll say about this. Tomorrow we will get back to the fun of scrolling.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Apology

After listening to a few readers I have decided to remove the pattern I posted this morning. I knew it might be objectionable and I should have used better judgement. It was not intended as a religious statement but I can understand the discomfort with the subject matter. I hope you will consider my usual high standards. I have always tried to keep the blog family friendly. I feel an apology is required. I'm not always right but I try to learn from my mistakes. Lesson learned.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Part Two of my toy box build.

I'm going to spend a little more time on the toy box today. I need to get it completed as soon as possible. I have to deliver it next weekend.

This is the bottom of the box. It needs a round-over detail routed on the front and both sided.I am using my router table but a hand held router will do fine for this job.  
This picture shows a small round-over I routed on three sides. 
While I had the router table set up I worked on the lid also. I did the same three sides but on the lid I did the top and bottomto give it a bull nose effect.
I set the box on the bottom. Make sure it is lined up with equal space all around. 
Use a square in one corner to make sure the box is squared up. If you screw it down out of square the lid will bind. Start with one screw then make sure it's still square. As you install more screws keep checking it.   
Here is the box with the bottom installed . Notice the over lap of the bottom. Notice that the front paned is set back from the sides by 1/2". I'm going to install the child's name on the front using 1/2" thick MDF. The recessed front panel will Let the letters sit back a little. 
The next step is to plug the pocket holes. Kreg sells these plugs along with the screws. Put a little glue in the hole and install the plug. 
Install a plug in every hole. Let the glue dry for a while before you start sanding them flush. 
A sander and some elbow grease is needed to get the plugs flush. The better you get the sanding done here the better the paint job will look.  
I'm going to finish up this session by easing over all the sharp edges and do some prep sanding. MDF has very porous edges. If you don't prep it right you will have trouble getting paint to cover the edges. I'm going to sand the edges as silky smooth as possible going through the grits. I'll sand down to at least 220 grit. In the next session I'll make a solution to apply to the edges to seal them. This sealer will keep the paint from soaking in so bad. I'm going to take a break and do some more work tonight. 




The Scrollsaw Workshop is primarily supported by donations. If you enjoy this Blog and would like to make a donation please click this link. Your support is greatly appreciated. Make A Donation


If you would like to have all the patterns in the Scrollsaw Workshop catalog you can buy the first six years DVD and the 2013 update DVD at this link. DVD #1 is $20 and contains over 1,100 patterns. The 2013 update DVD is $7.50 and has another 178 patterns.

Part One of my toy box build. Long Post with lots of pictures.

My wife informed me it was time to build another toy box. Our great-niece Aubrey is about to turn one. Over the years I have built either a rocking horse or toy box for the kids as they turn one. I always try to use the scroll saw to customize the toy boxes with ornaments and names.

I thought some of you might interested to see my progress as I go along. This is my day one progress. I pretty much have the box pieces cut. If I don't get called in to work tomorrow I'll start with the detail work. When I have everything finished I'll publish all the dimensions for the box. I'll also make a few different ornamentation so you can make your own custom toy box.

I visited my local Home Depot and picked up five sheets of 2' X 4' X 3/4" MDF. I plan to paint the final project so MDF is a good choice over plywood. MDF is very heavy but it paints well and it's pretty easy to work with. I'll be using pocket hole joinery for construction.
From my drawing I start cutting down the MDF to size. Remember, MDF is not good on the lungs so make sure you use your dust mask and have your shop well ventilated before you start.
Here are the outside walls of the box cut to rough size. I'll cut the lid and bottom later once the box is assembled. It's easier to cut those pieces to size by measuring than to cut them from the drawings. You can adjust the size if needed that way.
My drawings have the template for the curves of the side and back walls. My plans are printed on 8.5 X 11 paper so I'll have to cut and assemble the template. The picture is for one of the side walls.
In this picture I have the template taped together and ready to apply to the side wall.
I carefully tape the template to one of the cut side walls. Just put the tape on the bottom of the template so you can lift the top in insert the carbon paper. Double check that you are putting the template on the top of the side wall.
You can use carbon paper to trace the template lines but I just use a sheet of paper with pencil. It works fine. 
Carefully trace the template curves on to the side wall. You can lift the template and make sure you have a good tracing before you remove the tape. You don't have to be perfect here. You are going to have to sand the final curve anyway to get it smooth.
Once you have a good tracing you can remove the template. If you need to, go over the tracing again to get a line you can see easily.
I'm going to use a jig saw to do a rough cut of the curves. Stay just outside the template line. We will sand the curves to their final finish. Make sure you clamp the piece to your workbench. You want to make as smooth of a cut as you can so you don't have more sanding than necessary. By the way, I'm using my new 20v cordless DeWalt jig saw. I now have the drill, circular saw and jig saw. These tools have power to spare. I'm really impressed with these products. 
I finished the rough cut with the jig saw. Now it's over the the spindle sander.
A spindle sander is the right tool for this job. If you don't have one then just sand by hand until you get a nice smooth curve. Take you time here and get it right.
Even with the spindle sander I still finish off the sanding by hand. 
Now we can use the finished side to trace the pattern on to the other side.
Make sure the sides are lined up well then just trace the curves.
Just follow the same procedure to cut this side with your jig saw.
I placed both sides in my workbench vice and made sure they matched. If not more sanding is required.
Here is a dry assembly of the progress so far. The next step is to put the curve on the back wall.
The technique for the back wall template is the same as done with the sides. I just cut the pieces and taped them together.
Carefully apply the template. You want to make sure that each end of the curve is lined up with where the side wall meets the curve. You don't want the side wall higher than the back curve.  
Back to the jig saw. Follow the same procedure as the side wall. Cut just outside the line. Sand to the line. Get this curve as smooth as possible. It's a long curve and defects will show.  
I like to do several dry assemblies as I go along. It's better to spot errors now than after everything is screwed together. Next I'll cut the finger hole on the front.
Measure over four inches from each end and make a mark. Measure down 1.5 inches at each end and make a mark. Connects these lines with a curve. I used a candle jar I had available to mark the curve.
MDF dust if fine and will make a terrible mess of your shop. As I make the cuts with the jig saw I keep my shop vac running to grab as much dust as possible. Remember that dust mask. This stuff is really not good for you. Just like the other pieces use your spindle sander and sand paper to get the front finger hole smooth.
I do another dry assembly. Looking good so far. Fingers crossed.
Pocket hole joinery is my favorite for this type of project. It's easy, It's strong and it's fast. It's so strong that I won't even use glue. MDF does not take glue on it's edges very well so I'll just depend on the pocket screws to keep things together.  
Mark the position of your pocket holes before you start to drill. It's too easy to make a mistake and place a hole on the wrong side. You don't want to have to cut another piece at this point. Just take the time to lay out the holes and save yourself the headache. 
I cut three pocket holes on each end of the front and back panels. Make sure the top pocket hole is lower than where the lid will fit. To attache the bottom I cut two pocket holes in the side wall and three in the front and back. Some people like to use more but in my experience they are so strong why cause your self more work than needed. I plan to fill the holes and sand them flush so I will keep them to a minimum. 
When you start drilling the screws into the panels they have a tendency to move. The Kreg pocket hole system has several different types of clamps. When possible use these clamps to keep things nice and flush. All I'm assembling right now are the walls. This will give me the measurements for the lid and bottom panel.
I measured and cut the bottom panel to give me a 1/2" overlap around the bottom of the box. I'll use my router to put a round-over later. I also measured and cut the lid. I cut the lid just short of the front length to make sure it does not bind when opened. I also cut the lid so it overhangs the front panel by about 1/4".

That's enough for this day. I spent about four hours to get to this point. I have some decisions to make before I start again tomorrow. Hinges, casters, paint color and more need to be worked out. If I don't get called in to work tomorrow I'll see what progress I can make. The final plans for this toy box might take a few days after I get it completed. I want to make sure I have everything where I want it before I do the final design work. I tend to make changes as I go on work like this.



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This pattern book contains the following size patterns

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Important: On the successful payment page click the Return to Merchant button to be directed to the download page. This pattern book contains only the puzzle patterns. No pictures are included. The book is in Adobe pdf format and requires Adobe Reader to view. This is a download only. If you wish to pay by check please include an email address and I will send the file to you. I can not mail a disk or print of the book.

Stencil Printer 1.7

The Scrollsaw Workshop Stencil Printer 1.7 is my latest software for creating patterns. It will create key chain fobs, desk name plates and more. Click the image above to download the latest version. It is free to use donationware.

Scroll Saw Pattern Printer update 1.1

Scroll Saw Pattern Printer update 1.1
Download the Free Scroll Saw Pattern Printer Version 1.1. Create name patterns in seconds.
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Scroll Saw Keychain Pattern Maker

Use the Scroll Saw Keychain Maker to start a small keychain business. Build yourself a nice display and make up severl keychains with common names. Sell at craft shows, on Ebay or at work. Everyone needs a keychain. Take custom orders. Heck just make them and give them away as gifts. It's all made easy with the Scroll Saw Keychain Maker. Watch the video demonstration then download the file below and get started with the fun.
The following link will start the download process. After the file download is complete just click the setup file and the program will be installed. Please consider a $5 donation for the program.

Download the Oval Keychain Pattern Maker.

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Sue Mey Scroll saw artist

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Make sure you visit my good friend Sue. She is one of the finest scroll saw pattern designers in the world today. .

Philip Lowndes Noah's Arc Pattern Available. Watch the video below.

This video is from Philip Lowndes. He is the designer of this beautiful Noah's Arc puzzle pattern. If you would like the pattern follow the link below.
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Flying Dutchman. The blades recommended by Steve Good

Why do I recommend the Flying Dutchman blades? I could say they are high quality, sharp and consistent. That would be a good reason. I could say the price per blade is great and that would be an excellent reason. Those are the reasons I buy them but I recommend them because I like doing business with Mike at Mike's Workshop. When I send a reader of the Scrollsaw Workshop to Mike he takes care of them. That makes me look good and keeps my readers coming back.

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